A training hike in the Central Mountain Range of the Dominican Republic.

In an unusually rainy February, the forecast called for sunny skies. I have been planning this three-day hike to “El Arroyazo” (The Big Creek) by way of “El Mogote” for a few days, waiting patiently for fair weather. Today, this break in the weather was all I needed to get my backpack ready.

A view of “El Mogote” from the trail. 

The term “Mogote” in Spanish refers to a generally isolated, steep-sided residual hill, composed of limestone, marble, or dolomite and surrounded by nearly flat alluvial plains. El Mogote (5,030 ft) is the highest elevation in my hometown of Jarabacoa. This is my first stop on a three-day trip that will take me up and down the middle of the Cordillera Central (Central Mountain Range) of the Dominican Republic, ending at the famous big creek.

By the time my partner K drove me to the trailhead, it was pouring again. Weather in the mountains of the DR can be very unpredictable. Hoping that the weather would turn once again in my favor, I decided to set off anyway. Yet a sense of hesitation invaded me as our dogs Maya and Lili sat with sad faces in the back seat of our pickup truck. Maya looked at me with total disbelief, as she knew they were all supposed to accompany me for a short part of the trail.

The steady pace up the mountain felt endless. The trailhead to hike El Mogote begins at about 2,600 feet and goes up to about 5,160 feet for a total gain of about 2,500 feet in a course of about 3.5 kilometers. I soon realized that my conditioning was not up to the challenge and began to make frequent short stops to catch my breath.

But the lush tropical rainforest trail is beautiful and full of life, lifting my spirits and inviting me to keep going. My mindset slowly reset into enjoying the hike and noticing what comes up to greet me. Soon, I realized the beauty that surrounded me and forgot about my pounding heart and aching legs. 

By the time I reached the beginning of the final, very steep climb to the peak, I was already spent. The next hour or so was a steady crawl during which I counted about 10 steps and took similar deep breaths in between. 

At about five in the afternoon, the small flat land where the fire watch tower sits was covered with fog. The dampness and cold on my already burdened body made me feel numb. All I wanted was to unburden myself and find a chair in a warm place.

Benecito, the guard at the tower, offered me to stay inside the humble wooden structure that served as a watch station and home. I gladly accepted his hospitality. Inside, local news came out of a small AM radio as I lighted up my stove to make some tea. 

I tried to eat one of my dehydrated meals but only managed a few spoons. This small meal and the tea help settle my gassy stomach.  Benecito offered the kitchen floor for me to set my sleeping gear. The cold wind howled outside and made the wooden windows tremble. In this weather, I was on my air mattress by 8 PM, lucky to not set up my tent. 

I slept on intervals lasting about two hours each. A cat called for us to let him into the hut, but I feared opening the main door and waking my host.  Inside, a mouse seemed to enjoy the absence of his rival and roamed around searching for dinner. By the time I heard the roosters call, I had probably gotten six hours of interrupted sleep. That would have to do. 

I watched the sun go up and the beautiful valley below while having the leftovers from my dinner and a warm cup of tea. I made it through my first night. (To be continued.)

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