Traveling by Train: On the Way to Bornholm

A few initial thoughts…

Pursuing studies and a career in law is not particularly facilitative to long distance hiking. Although part of me would love to take the time to walk the AT, PCT, or CDT, for now I am content making the most of a few days here, a week at a time there to discover the smaller trails around wherever I am living at the time. Last year it was the Kungsleden in Sweden, then the Hebridean Way in Scotland the year before. Preceding adventures include the West Highland Way (also in Scotland) and five days in the Smokies. This year, as the summer months swiftly passed, I was beginning to think I would need to set aside hiking plans for the following year.

The past few months have been a whirlwind of change. In early May I left Tromsø, Norway where I had been studying for the past 8 months, visited family and friends in the US, submitted my master’s thesis in early June then a few days later moved to Germany to start a PhD position. With the abrupt transition between finishing my masters in Norway and starting my new job at a university in Halle (Saale), a city in Eastern Germany, I did not have my normal summer hiking adventure. Now a few months into said position, I have settled into my new life, my new routines. Running routes established, favourite coffee spots located. When I was granted holiday time, I immediately set about planning a few days on trail and I ended up stumbling across a gem of a trail on Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, nicknamed solskinsøen (sunshine island) with a ferry connection to northern Germany.

Bornholm has been named as a top hiking and holiday destination in Europe – I had even been to Bornholm once before while studying in Copenhagen for a semester, spending a day cycling to some of the tourist sites. I was very pleased to discover the Bornholm Coastal Path (kyststi in Danish, Küstenwanderweg in German) which follows the shoreline of the island for approximately 120km, or 75 miles – just the right length to complete in a few days. And importantly (since I do not own a car), the island is accessible via public transport from Halle. It would take a little bit of doing to get there, but entirely possible.

The adventure begins! Day 1: Traveling overland from Halle (Saale) to Sassnitz

The morning of my departure from Halle, I woke up without the usual pre-trail nerves. The only hint of anxiety I felt focused on a tight train connection I had to make. Although Deutsche Bahn, the state-owned transport company of Germany, had thus far been steadfastly reliable for me, I’ve heard too many stories of Deutsche Bahn’s failings and unreliability to remain entirely trustful. That being said, as someone who grew up in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, where passenger trains are non-existent, despite delays I am nevertheless in continuous gratitude for the ease of travel available to car-less individuals such as myself. I went through my packing checklist one last time, ensured I had my phone, ID, charger, etc. hoisted my Gossamer Gear Gorilla pack and set out on a sleepy Saturday morning for the central station.

The first stage of the journey, Halle (Saale) to Berlin Hauptbanhof was as smooth as could be, I read my book (particularly when going on solo adventures, I will always bring a book, the extra weight is worth it to me! My selection for this trail was Jane Austen’s Emma, light-hearted, laugh out loud funny at times, nothing that will make me wake in my tent with a start when a mouse rustles through the grass outside my tent) and started the latest episode of Backpacker Radio. I made my connection on the regional train to Stralsund…along with what felt like half the population of Berlin. I spent the first hour standing room only, before finding myself a windowsill I could perch on, and finally finding a seat for the last hour as the train delivered its passengers across the country.

Arriving in Stralsund, I found my next platform and…here it was, the dreaded delay but at this point I was now on the final leg of the day’s journey and no connections were at risk. I watched the delay increase steadily. Once it hit an hour I left the station for a bit of wandering, sampled some ice cream, and returned with my book to the platform. By this point, it seemed that the train was en route to the station but was no longer going to the last few stops (including mine).

Waiting for the train…

…and still waiting

Finally, I was on board, rumbling past fields of solar panels and wind turbines, grain and corn waving in the breeze, industry hubs and remnants of industry long since moved on, leaving only warehouses and blank staring windows. The first glimpse of the sea caught me by surprise. Getting closer! After one last train switch, I emerged in the seaside resort and harbour town of Sassnitz on the German island of Rügen.

Sassnitz in the sun

The gathering storm

The town borders Jasmund National Park, known for its white chalk cliffs. I took myself on a tour of the town, through the bustling harbour past ice cream shops, souvenir shops selling beach themed knick-knacks, maritime themed museums, sunset cruises. By this point evening was approaching and with it the clouds were building. The weather had been threatening rain all afternoon and the storm finally broke with long rolling thunderclaps echoing across the harbor. I hurriedly threw on my rain gear and took shelter under an overhang for the initial onslaught. Once the thunder passed (still raining though), I walked 30 minutes through the forest to a designated car/RV/tent campsite (Naturerlebniscamp Birkengrund) located on the edge of Jasmund National Park and complete with the luxuries of running water, toilets, and picnic tables.

The rain cleared as I arrived, and I quickly went about setting up my tent (Gossamer Gear The One – which has served me well in adventures throughout the Nordic countries). I only hike with one trekking pole so I also carry with me one of the Gossamer Gear tent poles, a system which has worked for me thus far in my adventuring.

Campsite established, I set about making my dinner. I am a cold-soaker and have been for all my backpacking adventures, and I quite enjoy the meals that I concoct. Textures don’t bother me so if my meals are all the same vaguely mushy texture, I still enjoy them as the long as the flavours are nice. Maybe that’s the secret to being a successful cold soaker, having low standards on texture. I started off strong with powdered potatoes and other veggies in powdered form with nutritional yeast and spices prepared in my trusty talenti jar. As the sun began to set, I went for a walk along some of the surrounding trails (the hiking part of this blog is yet to begin, and I needed to stretch my legs a bit!). A dense mist rose up from the damp earth into the warm evening, turning my surroundings to cotton candy pink in the light of the setting sun.

As I got cozy in my tent, I was struck by how warm outside it was in stark contrast to previous trails I’ve walked in Scotland, Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, and the Smokies where the instant the sun sets the temperatures drop. Now, however, I was faced with the reality that I may have overpacked – perhaps my puffer jacket and wool base layers were not necessary? But alas I was stuck with them for the rest of my hike. At least bundled together they make a superbly comfortable pillow! I read my book, listening to the soft conversations from fellow campsite users bloom around me in a myriad of foreign languages.